I normally like richer, specialty breads – the heavy kind you find in some European bread shop, each for its own purpose and recipe – but a recent trip to the grocery store made me curious about the type of ordinary bread most Americans are eating. After looking at the nutrition label of several major baking companies, I was disgusted. They read like something out of a chemistry class; high fructose corn syrup, soybean oil, calcium sulfate, mono and diglycerides, ethoxylated mono and diglicerides, sodium steroyl lactylate, calcium peroxide, datem, ascorbic acid, azodicarbonamide, guar gum, calcium propionate, monocalcium phosphate, ammonium sulfate, and soy lecithin, to name a few. Call me old-fashioned but I think bread should have only a handful of ingredients. The fewer steps, and the fewer fillers or preservatives, between you and the fields in which the wheat was grown, the better.
[mainbodyad]This put me on a mission to add one or two recipes to the permanent collection that can mimic what most Americans want when they say they are interested in making a ham sandwich or putting strawberry jam on toast. Fortunately, I already had the tools. The last time I talked about one of my bread projects, I mentioned buying some commercial Pullman pans that have a secure lid that attaches to them to replicate the shape of the loaves you find in major grocery stores. (If you don’t have any, I highly recommend them. Amazon has the standard 13″x4″x4″ on sale for 44% off at the moment.)
The first step was to find a suitable white or potato bread. The best option was to go with a traditional Pain de mie, which is a high fat bread with a lot of butter, milk, dry milk, and a bit of white sugar. The latter is unusual as I normally like to rely on honey if I want to make a sweeter bread, but I considered it an acceptable sacrifice given the parameters of the mission. Counting the tiny bit I used to proof the yeast, the finished loaf has between 0.5 and 1.0 grams of sugar per slice depending on preferred thickness.
This afternoon, I decided to test a Pain de mie recipe from the King Arthur Flour company. It turned out wonderfully. Even though it looks the same, it tastes so much better than the sawdust that masquerades as sandwich bread in this country, especially when you take it out of the oven, it’s warm, and you hear that pleasant “crack” sound as you crush through the golden layer on the outside of the loaf with your bread knife. It was the most enjoyable dough I’ve ever worked with as the fat content from the diary (whole milk, dry milk, and butter) causes it to be perfect, smooth, and pliable. It’s definitely a treat – I wouldn’t want it every day over my heavier, denser, traditional breads – but I’ll be making it in the future.
The thing that surprised me is how big the cost differential is. Not only is the product far better, the homemade version comes to between 10% and 20% of the retail price of store bread. If you enjoyed baking, and went through only a single loaf per week, your family could save a couple hundred dollars per year on your grocery bill by having the better bread if you were able to work in the time on a weekend to put it together. Invest the savings in an index fund, earn average historical rates of return, and by the end of an adult life expectancy, you’d have an extra $631,241 sitting around in your portfolio. That’s one of the ways the dairy farmer in my hometown built the biggest fortune at the bank trust department; frugality combined with a habit of buying stakes in blue chip stocks that he and his wife held forever.
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Reader Comments (16)
Comments are presented chronologically, with replies indented beneath the comments to which they respond.





JB
July 23, 2014
Joshua,
That loaf of bread looks delicious! How do you cut it with your bread knife so that the slices are straight? I havent got that down yet and my slices are always very uneven.
Joshua Kennon
August 13, 2014
Replying to JB
If you have a hard time doing it by eye, you can use something like a classic bread loaf slicer or one of the more modern ones, which looks like this YouTube clip. So far, we've done it manually but I've been considering one of the former just for convenience as it seems like it would be quicker. I know a lot of people like them.
As for the knife, we use this one and it is phenomenal. I could never go back to any other knife. It lets you cut effortlessly without crushing the loaf. It's so good, we use it for vegetables a lot of the time, too. It has 433 reviews and 5 stars, every one of which is deserved.
Gilvus
July 23, 2014
From the thumbnail, I thought you had a Good Delivery bar on your countertop or something. My second thought was you posted a screenshot of a corundum ingot. I haven't opened Skyrim in over a year, and it still weighs on my mind...ಠ_ಠ
If you try a bread recipe using whole-grain flour, could you post the results for the health nuts and diabetics in your audience? Thanks 🙂
Scott McCarthy
July 23, 2014
Replying to Gilvus
With the way Joshua talks about gold, thinking about him having a half-million of physical on hand (that he would actually show off, no less) made me laugh. Though a LBMA good delivery bar is certainly on the list of things that would be nice to wake up next to.
Gilvus
July 23, 2014
Replying to Scott McCarthy
Exactly! The apparent 180º in behavior confused me for a bit. It took me a couple of seconds to register what the title meant, because the phrasing of "Baking Pain de mie" is initially confusing for someone who's never heard of that type of bread before. In those seconds, my mind wandered back to my gaming days. Gah.
I don't know about you, Scott, but I prefer to wake up to the soft touch a woman. Gold bullion doesn't caress you back :p
Steven
July 23, 2014
Purchased. After making that amazing herb infused bread recipe you posted a while back I will never ignore any bread article you post:)
Joshua Kennon
August 13, 2014
Replying to Steven
This bread is definitely a country white bread that most Americans eat, nothing fancy. Personally, I like it when I'm feeling a bit nostalgic about my childhood. It's best if you put it in a toaster and let it get slightly warm, like it was just out of the oven but not yet showing visible signs of toasting, and then put butter or jam on it because it releases the scent and flavor of that freshly-baked experience.
You do have to eat it fairly quickly though, within a few days normally, or it will dry out because it has no preservatives. I found that with this particular ingredient list, after you have cut into it, you need to wrap it in plastic wrap and put it somewhere dark to keep it moist. It's the nature of the recipe, unfortunately, unlike the hardier artisan breads.
I'm hoping to cook a lot more bread tests this autumn, sometime between September and November. I'll try to find a few good ones that make the cut and post them if you're interested. (As always, if you come across anything interesting, too, please let me know! I've gotten some great suggestions in the past this way.)
Steven
August 14, 2014
Replying to Joshua Kennon
Thanks Joshua, that would be great. What I really hope to find is a somewhat healthy (whole wheat?) yet tasty recipe that will cook up into the Pullman Pan shape.
Connelly Barnes
July 23, 2014
I mostly stopped shopping at the local supermarkets in my area after making it my mission to obsessively read every ingredients list and buy nothing with HFCS, maltodextrin, or anything else that isn't a whole food. I found those in nearly all brands at the local supermarket, thus I switched to Trader Joe's which gave me a much higher probability of being able to buy food :-).
Marc KS
July 23, 2014
I'm lucky to live in Winnipeg with respect to bread... every grocery store carries Rye Bread from some of the local bakeries.
4-6 Ingredient breads and I love the taste of rye bread on top of that.
Although apparently what I eat is "Winnipeg Style" rye bread which is very different from the rye bread everyone else eats.
joe pierson
July 23, 2014
Replying to Marc KS
All American cities carry the specialty breads, like Jewish ryes, with few ingredients, they are $4+/loaf and unaffordable for most families, most Americans buy the $1/loaf bread.
Erik
July 23, 2014
Your food posts are some of the most enjoyable posts for me to read, and quite often inspirational! I agree with the idea of minimal ingredient breads, and we have only made our own for over a year now. My wife and I are learning to be better cooks, and someday hope to have a kitchen that is as communal as yours seems to be, with similarly delicious foods!
I have never used a pullman loaf pan, and it seems like a good way to have more efficiently sized sandwiches for packing a lunch. I will also need to try to start using honey instead of granulated sugar.
Chris G.
July 24, 2014
I've been using the "White Bread" recipe from "Baking With Julia" for over 10 years; started baking my own bread exclusively when living in Guam, where the bread was not particularly good at all. It's got flour, water, salt, and yeast, plus melted butter for fat. That's it. (I don't care for dairy in my breads). It bakes up nice, and has good body, but still light enough to not be reminiscent of a country bread.
Joshua Kennon
August 13, 2014
Replying to Chris G.
I'll have to try this one, thanks for letting me know!
kaththee
March 30, 2015
Joshua, I make this bread for my family often. I am surprised that you report to make it for so little cost. I think my Pain de Mie cost about 1 dollars for a 20 ounce loaf (which is what a grocery store bread weighs) because of the expense of the special bakers milk and the potato flour. My actual loaf weighs about 28 ounces and with the remaining dough, I make a 12 ounce loaf (in a regular bread pan) that we usually consume with dinner the day I bake. Often I will cut the smaller loaf while it is still warm. I have even taken to making it with bleached flour to bring down the cost because I can buy bleached APF in bulk but not unbleached. I wish I could find a source of good unbleached flour in bulk. I beg to differ with the person who said that the Pain De Mie goes stale quickly. Mine taste good for days on end. I do add some ascorbic acid, and King Arthur Flour's Cake Enhancer and those two do seem to keep the bread from getting stale or moldy. I also add a tiny bit of lecithin which I think helps too. I bake mine at 350 for exactly 40 minutes or it seems to keyhole. I wish I could get my crust as light as yours and not have a key-holing problem. The bread reaches a done temperature much earlier than the 40 minutes but I have had it keyhole if I try to take it out even one minute earlier. I even bought a Mafter pullman to see if it would help give me a lighter crust. I didn't think the blue steel performed any better than the USA pullmans I have from King Arthur flour. I would love your opinion on that too. Do you think the Mafter Exoglass pans perform better? Anyway, I would love to see a breakdown of the cost of your Pain De Mie. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. I love this bread recipe and I have used it as an emersion learning bread recipe.
Joshua Kennon
March 30, 2015
Replying to kaththee
I wonder if there is some sort of geographic variation on grocery costs? When I was down in Georgia recently, even the McDonald's menu was 10% to 20% higher than it is in Missouri. I know that we traditionally have much cheaper steak, wheat, and dairy than other parts of the country given that we're surrounded by millions of acres of farmland for hundreds of miles in all directions and have the benefit of a major energy transfer corridor, giving us some of the cheapest gas and other costs in the nation (sadly, our fruit and fish are much higher for obvious reasons). That might play a role? I'm not sure off the top of my head, I'd need to look into it more. The next time I make it, I'll try to remember to make a special spreadsheet to track each of the cost inputs using the scale on a per ounce basis.
Thanks for the tip on the ascorbic acid. I haven't done that, yet, mostly because we get through it very quickly but I might give that a go. I appreciate that a lot!
As for the color of the bread: Are you using an electric or gas oven? There is a difference in how they cook, with natural gas ovens being "wetter" due to higher humidity, sometimes taking a bit longer to cook. For us, it requires eyeing the recipe more and going by sight but we can control the final product a lot easier. It's a huge difference but requires a bit more of a dance, which makes it feel like an art. In contrast, in my parents' house, they use a brand new, LG electric oven and it's very dry, even heat. (When you open our oven, it feels like a hot day in the tropical-like environment of Orlando, Florida. When you open my parents' oven, it feels like a hot day in the dry Las Vegas desert.) People tend to have some pretty strong preferences either way and certain ovens are better for specific tasks. Whenever we build a house, I imagine we'll install both for just that reason. This person, for example, mentions a local baker who prefers a natural gas oven for his French baguettes because they get that wonderful, beautiful, golden caramelized top. I fall into that category. Sometimes, it can be a challenge if you are making a ball-shaped bread recipe - the moister gas oven causes the outside of the no knead rosemary garlic bread to cook before the inside so I suspect electric would be better for it - but who knows?
When I cook this one in the gas oven, I keep the rack right in the middle of the oven with a second rack inserted right below it to absorb some of the heat. Personally, if it were me and you're reaching "done" earlier than 40 minutes, I'd lower the temperature and try baking it by sight once, instead. Maybe drop it 25 or 50 degrees? You just have to learn the quirks of the oven itself to get it to do exactly what you want.
As for pans, in addition to the commercial ones linked to on this page, we tend to use Goldtouch from Williams-Sonoma, which are really high quality pans, and the Heritage Loaf Pans from Le Creuset, which are more because I feel like cooking in a certain color that day (they aren't as ... I don't know, precise, maybe? as the metal pans. They come out more "arist-y" whereas you'd think the metal cooked breads were made in a commercial kitchen).
If you find any other recipes you like, let me know! We're bread buddies now! I don't know too many people who still make their own around here but once you get used to the scent of it coming from the kitchen, it's hard to go back. It's so much better than the store-bought stuff!
Also, if you ever happen to come across a pan like Panera Bread uses for a certain type of loaf that is almost 9"-12" WIDE by maybe 12" deep, let me know, please. I've been searching forever and haven't found one, yet. For certain types of bread doughs, they seem to be more ideal because the dough is in a much more concentrated area with much larger slices but they are evading me! I'm almost at the point of calling the local Panera restaurant and asking to outright buy one through the business.