Dress Shirts for Men 101

Several times each month, a family member, friend, colleague, or reader will ask me about dress shirts for men.  Questions range from what to look for in a quality dress shirt to the names of some of the best shirtmakers in the world.  For the sake of efficiency, I sat down this weekend and wrote a beginner’s guide to dress shirts for men, which can serve as a reference.  This makes it easier for people to find, and save me time because I can point to it whenever a question arises, not having to repeat myself.

A History of Dress Shirts for Men

Dress Shirts for Men GuideA majority of men in the United States have never designed a dress shirt.  A century ago, all shirts were custom made to your specifications. You would walk into a store like J.C. Penney, look at fabrics, have measurements taken, and six weeks later, a shirt would show up manufactured for you.

Then, retailers figured out they could save a lot of money by making large runs of limited patterns in a handful of pre-designed sizes.  Customers could walk into a store, get a decent approximate fit, and have instant gratification.  This dropped costs substantially and, within a generation or two, most men had no idea that there was any other way to order shirts.

In fact, even the term “dress shirt”, which signifies a more formal pattern as contrasted to “sports shirt”, which is a more casual fabric and style, only became necessary with the rise of the t-shirt as everyday clothing.  Our great grandparents would have called a dress shirt nothing more than “a shirt”.  It was what people wore.  There really were no other kinds of shirts suitable for wearing in public.

This created an interesting split in society.  Those who had sufficient resources, or the sartorial culture, in their family continued to have their dress shirts designed, tailored, and manufactured specifically for them.  Those who lacked these inheritances believed that shirts were something you bought off a rack from a local discount retailer.  Nowhere is this split more evident than if you walk into a shirtmaker’s showroom floor with someone who doesn’t know the process.  I’ve heard several friends remark about great clothiers, “I stopped in once but didn’t see anything I liked, so I left.”  They truly have no idea that for every one dress shirt on the showroom floor, there are 100x as many fabrics in the shirting fabric books; that the clothing on the racks are mere samples.

Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure vs. Off-the-Rack Dress Shirts for Men

When you are looking at dress shirts for men, all shirts will fall into one of three categories: Bespoke, Made-to-Measure, or Off-the-Rack.

  • Bespoke Shirts are completely custom designed for you based on a pattern drawn to fit your exact body size and preferences.  Once your pattern is on file, you can order new shirts any time you want simply by flipping through fabric books.  You have total control and virtually anything you can sketch or describe can be made.
  • Made-to-Measure Shirts are modified based on a set of existing patterns to adjust for your own measurements and limited preferences.  If you have a fairly standard body type with ordinary proportions, there isn’t an enormous difference between made-to-measure shirts and bespoke shirts.  It may or may not be worth the additional money for you to pay for bespoke.  Your pattern adjustments can be kept on file so you can reorder when you find a new fabric you love without needing to get re-fitted.
  • Off-the-Rack Shirts are based on pre-established sizes and limited shirting fabrics, often by neck size / sleeve size for men.  For example, a 16.5/33-34 would be a 16.5″ neck with a 33″ to 34″ arm.

Off-the-rack shirts can be great bargains if you shop intelligently (e.g., during the day-after-Christmas sale at Nordstrom, dress shirts from Italian shirtmaker Canali are priced at huge discounts, taking $275 retail shirts down to $165), you fit comfortably into a standard size, and you are lucky enough to find a pattern you like.  If you are looking for decent dress shirts for men to wear under a sweater or with a pair of blue jeans, off-the-rack shirts have their place.  The problem you are likely to face is one of experience.  Once you’ve become accustomed to having your shirts fit exactly how you want, move precisely how you desire, feel just as you like them, and be made to your specifications and personality quirks, it can be very difficult to accept anything else, even if the alternative is nice.

[mainbodyad]All else equal, even a $500 off-the-rack shirt is going to be inferior to you, as a wearer, than a $200 made-to-measure or bespoke shirt.  It always amazes me, for example, to see people buying Charvet or Brioni shirts off-the-rack at the Saks flagship store in New York when, for very little additional money, you could have them custom made to your specifications in the respective showrooms of each fashion house.

My rule of thumb: If you are willing to invest a little bit of money into your wardrobe, you should never pay more than $250 for an off-the-rack shirt, and even that is pushing it.  Beyond that price, if you are intelligent about your purchasing, you can get a much higher quality made-to-measure or bespoke shirt in the fabric of your choice, personalized down to the cuff style, collar style, and cut (“fit”) by a great shirting house.

Speaking for myself, I have no problem buying inexpensive clothes off-the-rack for casual summer ware.  In fact, I am partial to the $15 shorts sold at J.C. Penney for hot summer days when I want to sit outside and read with a glass of water and flip flops.  When it comes to dress shirts, I want spare-no-expense comfort since I like feeling good, and looking good, all day.  That makes buying off-the-rack difficult.  The last dress shirt I bought off-the-rack was a Breuer gingham at Saks for $225 nearly a year ago.

This is not a screed against off-the-rack clothing.  For some people, a nicer shirt has no marginal utility to them.  That is perfectly acceptable.  Other people should not buy nicer clothes due to their financial situation; they’d be better off repaying credit card debt or buying a home.  In short, the reason you’d buy bespoke or made-to-measure instead of off-the-rack is the same reason you’d pick a Bentley or a Lexus over a Ford.  You buy it because it is nicer and you can afford it.

The Primary Fit Styles for Dress Shirts for Men

Once you’ve chosen between bespoke, made-to-measure, and off-the-rack, you need to pick a fit.  The fit you select will depend on your body type and your personal preference.

  • Slim Fit shirts are tailored in the chest, waist, and arms for a closer, sleeker look.  It has nothing to do with being “slim” or “fat”.  If you like your clothes high, tight, and tailored, you probably prefer a slim fit.
  • Extra Slim Fit or Super Slim Fit shirts are a more extreme version of the slim fit.
  • Regular Fit shirts are typically close to a traditional shirting fit with slightly tapered sides.
  • Traditional Fit shirts are cut more like a box.

Here is a good diagram provided by retailer Brooks Brothers (you can see my visit to the flagship store in New York here) to explain the difference between the different fits you might find in most dress shirts for men.

Bespoke Shirt Fit Guide Slim Fit Traditional Fit

The Heart of Every Dress Shirt for Men Is Shirting Fabric

Once you have selected your manufacturing method (bespoke, made-to-measure, or off-the-rack) and a fit (slim fit, extra slim fit, regular fit, or traditional fit), the next thing you need to think about is the shirting fabric.  I’ve shown you pictures of the process of choosing shirting fabrics in the past.

There is nothing quite as good in the world as the perfect shirting fabric.  Just like colognes or music, movies or books, food and friends, everyone has very specific personal tastes when it comes to shirting fabrics.  Some people like non-iron smooth-as-crisp-bedsheet fabrics, while others like soft-hug-you-like-cashmere-warm-to-the-touch cottons.  Some men prefer lightweight shirting fabrics, while others would rather wear a heavier, more substantial material.

Rich Textile Herringbone Shirting Fabric

I prefer rich, textured textile shirting fabrics that change color in the light or have intricate weaves in them.

Seasonality and climate play a big role in the right shirting fabrics.  During summer, I am partial to lightweight, clean, smooth shirting fabrics in casual patterns such as ginghams, whereas in winter, I want heavy, rich, dense textiles like textured herringbone with complex patterns that feel like being wrapped in a blanket.  I also like extremely bright or rare colors, that are then hidden under cashmere sweaters, blazers, sports jackets, or suits because I have a penchant for clothes with a hidden personality – like Mrs. White removing her jacket in the 1980’s “Clue” movie.  (Some of my most conservative dark suits have vibrant silk linings in gold and purple that is only visible when and if I remove my jacket.)

Regardless of where you buy your shirt, or who constructs it for you, virtually all quality shirting fabrics originate at a handful of mills.  Generally speaking, the best shirting fabrics will come from brands such as ALUMO, Thomas Mason, Cotonificio Albini, Otolina, David John Anderson, Grandi and Rubinelli, T.E.S.T.A, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Vitale Barberis Canonico, and Loro Piana.

If you have nice clothes, your closet is filled with textiles produced by these mills, even though you’ve probably never heard of them.  The only widely recognized fabric mill that successfully made the transition to fashion house, designing, manufacturing, and selling directly-to-end-customers and through third party distributors such as high-end department stores, is Emenegildo Zegna.  The rest are content to make their textiles and then sell them to tailors, shirtmakers, fashion designers, and clothing lines, who then use it as raw material to create products for their customers.  If a particular designer wants a custom textile, they can draw it, then approach one of the mills to make a limited batch that is sold exclusively to them.

Thomas Mason Shirting Fabric

Thomas Mason Shirting Fabric

For example, many high-end custom shirtmakers use Thomas Mason fabrics.  You could walk into the showroom of one of these shirtmakers, flip through their fabric books, and design a custom shirt in, say, Tadly Gingham.  Yet, if you walked into a J. Crew Store this season, you would see an off-the-rack Tadly Gingham dress shirt for $135. The J. Crew designers created the shirt, ordered the fabric from Thomas Mason, and then had it massed produced in limited sizes with no personalization to bring the cost down to more affordable levels.

The price of the shirting fabric used depends upon the complexity and quality of materials that go into it.  A rich, complex textile that has lot of detail costs more than a basic cotton.  A high quality Sea Island Cotton is going to cost more than your run-of-the-mill cotton.

To learn the difference between different shirting fabrics used in dress shirts for men, such as twill, brushed twill, broadcloth, pinpoint oxford, oxford cloth, royal oxford, dobby, batiste, gingham, herringbone, pima cotton, sea island cotton, and Egyptian cotton, read this guide.  It has pictures to help you identify each, and explains some of the differences.

The Skill of the Tailor or Shirtmaker Who Makes the Dress Shirt Determines Construction Quality

The next component of the cost of dress shirts for men is the shirtmaker.  The same shirting fabric in the hands of two different artisans can turn out wildly different.

[mainbodyad]Finding a shirtmaker that fits with your style and personality is one of the most important decisions you can make when it comes to your wardrobe.  Each shirtmaker is going to have different quality levels, showroom experiences, and personalities.  One might be in a mahogany-paneled showroom on the upper East Side of New York City where attentive staff help you build a wardrobe as soft, classical music plays in the background.  Another might be in the garment district, in a bare-floor workshop with people furiously cutting, sewing, and perfecting their work.  One might be excellent at creating tight, tailored Italian-inspired shirts, whereas another might excel at more traditional English shirts.

In this sense, when it comes to dress shirts for men, brand names are just a clue; a proxy to help the uniformed determine quality.  Those who know what makes a great shirt great can judge a garment on sight.  Those who don’t need to rely on the past reputation of shirtmakers.  The names that garner the most respect in the shirtmaking world, Charvet and Turnbull & Asser, do so because they are known for the outstanding quality construction of their garments.  Even so, you fill find some people that can’t stand either shirtmaker for one reason or another.  It’s a subjective industry.

What makes a high quality dress shirt for men?  For a complete list, I recommend this guide.  The short list:

  • The threat count should be at least 80, with 120/140 or higher being better.  (This doesn’t stand for threads per inch as people commonly assume, but rather yarn size; e.g., 200s means there are 200 hanks (1 hank = 840 yards) of yarn in one pound.)
  • Buttons should be mother-of-pearl or other high-quality material.
  • Buttons should be stitched with a criss-cross “X” pattern for reinforcement.
  • All stitches in the garment should be straight and parallel to the seam.
  • The collar should be well-constructed and stiff enough to maintain its shape.
  • The collar should have removable collar stays, which are put in before wearing and taken out before laundering.  These help the collar retain its shape and stay in place throughout the day.  You can get cheaper, plastic collar stays or a set of really nice brass or mother-of-pearl collar stays.
  • There should be no bunching of fabric at the end of the collar on a high quality dress shirt.
  • Fabric patterns should match up throughout the garment.  For example, in a striped dress shirts, the stripes should match from the shoulder to the arms.  If you are paying money to have good quality merchandise, you deserve to have something that is well-structured.  Unfortunately, some shirtmakers are inconsistent in this area.  I’ve seen $50 department store shirts where the pattern matching is perfect and $300 made-to-measure Brooks Brothers shirts with horrific mismatches where the sleeves meet the body of the shirt.  Good shirtmakers with top-shelf reputations will pay attention to those details.
  • Many men who are dress shirt aficionado insist on reinforced side gussets.

Each shirtmaker is going to carry his own selection of shirting fabrics from the mills we discussed earlier, and many can even work with you to create a custom shirt if you have procured the fabric yourself somehow (e.g., you were on vacation in China and saw a beautiful textile that you bought and now want turned into a sport shirt to wear with jeans).

Collar, Cuff, Placket, and Other Options

One of the most enjoyable parts about commissioning dress shirts for men is the ability to choose your cuff style, collar style, placket style, and other options, such as whether you want a pleat in the back or a pocket in the front.  Every reputable shirtmaker offers different options and can provide samples of what they look like to help you make a selection.  Certain body types and face types look better in certain styles, which is where a good shirtmaker’s expertise really shines.

A List of the Best Shirtmakers in the World

Here is a reasonably complete list of some of the best shirtmakers in the world.  Arguably, the two most famous high-quality shirt makers in the world are Charvet in Paris, France, and Turnbull & Asser in London, England.

Charvet Shirts in Paris

Charvet in Paris is considered by many to be the greatest shirtmaker in the world.

One of the reasons Charvet is so famous is their policy of carrying more on-site shirting fabrics in their Paris flagship store than any other shirtmaker on the planet, turning it into a veritable playground for men.  Other brands are considered nice; e.g., a Brooks Brothers made-to-measure shirt is a very good value, especially during the semi-annual 25% off private sales events.

In most shirting fabrics, prices range from $100 to $600 per dress shirt, with some shirtmakers requiring a minimum order of several shirts.  A well constructed dress shirt for men should last for several years.  My wardrobe still contains some great shirts in classic designs that are 10 years old and still look as new as the day I received them.

There is also an enormous difference in quality between different shirtmakers.  You need to compare that quality to the price they are charging.

For example, if someone says, “Do you consider a Thomas Pink shirt a good shirt?”  That is a somewhat difficult question because you also have to account for value.  At $180 per shirt, or $200 after taxes, I’m not thrilled that a Thomas Pink shirt doesn’t offer mother-of-pearl buttons and a few other touches.  I wouldn’t be willing to pay full retail, even though I might pay twice that for a bespoke shirt from another fashion house.  Yet, during the Thomas Pink semi-annual sale with discounts as high as 40%, I would consider it a good buy.  It’s a bit like saying, “Is a Mercedes C Class a good car?”.  Yes, it is, but not at the same price as a Mercedes S Class, a Lexus or a Bentley.

There are many more; this is just a starting point.  Almost all top shirtmakers from Europe have American trunk shows in major cities throughout the country, allowing you to get fitted by their tailor.

When You Buy a Dress Shirt for Men, You Are Paying for 4 Things

A final word on pricing.  When you buy a dress shirt for men, or even a sport shirt, you are paying for four things:

  1. The shirting fabric
  2. The skill of the tailor or shirt maker
  3. The prestige value of the label
  4. The markups to cover middlemen and end-retailer costs

The best shirting fabrics are going to cost more, the best tailors and shirtmakers can charge more for their time, and even the best known brands can demand a premium by virtue of their reputations, some of which took centuries to build.  The higher up the food chain you go in the world of bespoke shirting, there is no middleman, in which case you pay the sticker price.  If you want Turnbull & Asser shirts, you can’t bargain shop; you go to Turnbull & Asser and commission shirts.


  • Myles Ussher

    Any thoughts on outfits like Daswani and Raja’s? I’ve found both to provide nice shirts at very resonable prices.

    • Joshua Kennon

      I’ve heard both good and bad but I don’t have any firsthand experience.  It sounds like you’ve already purchased from them and I say if they make products you like, you enjoy the fit, you are happy with the fabric, you are comfortable with the price, and they last for several years, you found a winner.

      As with most things in life, there is a big personal element in finding a great dress shirt for men that doesn’t always mean more money is better.  To use a parallel, I’ve collected fine pens for most of my life.  My absolute favorites to use on a day-to-day basis are not the expensive limited edition Montblanc fountain pens (even though they are great), but rather, the Parker Duofold Rollerballs, which are a about 1/10th the cost.  I have two sitting on my desk right now and I used both all day long (one is inked in blue, the other in black, for keeping track of my notes).  They are workhorses that never disappoint.  There are other pen collectors that think I’m nuts for preferring them but they work for me as my “go to” standard issue writing instrument.  Shirts are the same way.  I’ve heard some guys who swear by the sales at Hilditch & Key, saying it gives them the best possible value for the money, while others insist they would never order from anyone but Luigi Borrelli.

      There is some great info on different shirting companies over at styleforum.net if you have the time and inclination.  I’m sure they probably have several threads devoted to the establishments you mentioned.  You might also want to check out a forum called Ask Andy About Clothes, which has a very knowledgable contributor base.

  • Gilvus

    Your “history of dress shirts” sounds like an established example of the consumer hourglass. I have no shame in saying I’m buried deep within the lower bulb.

    • Joshua Kennon

      It is a very good example! It split a century before most other industries did, partly out of necessity because retailing and textiles are notoriously tough businesses.

      Climate also plays a role. The further south you are in the Northern Hemisphere, the less you are likely to pay for clothes due to temperature. If I lived below the Mason Dixon line, I know I’d spend less on dress shirts than I do today. During the summer, I become an extreme bargain shopper because I’m content wearing a polo shirt and a pair of shorts. If you are smart about it, you can often get better quality merchandise for great prices. My technique often involves batching purchases for volume discounts. For example, three or four years ago, I went into a local Brooks Brothers and bought nearly one of every color in the Golden Fleece polo shirt line. I don’t remember the exact math but based on the current price, they are $65 each, so for 33 colors, which would be $2,145 plus sales tax. But, if you negotiate with management since you are placing a bigger order, or time it with a special sale, you could probably get it as low as $1,500. That would work out to only $45 plus sales tax per polo shirt, alleviating the need to buy new summer clothing for years. Spread out on a per use basis, my clothing costs less than a dollar or two per day in the hotter months.

      I’m a pretty tough judge in this department, but I see absolutely no difference between a $45 to $80 Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers polo shirt and a $300+ bespoke polo shirt from one of the major Italian fashion houses. None. Unlike a dress shirt or sports shirt, which involves pattern matching, mother-of-pearl buttons, expensive fabric selection, cut considerations, and a host of other factors that require skilled tradesman to spend hours of their time making the final product, a decent fitting polo shirt is a decent fitting polo shirt. As long as you like the fabric and fit, you just want something that maintains its shape and color for a few years. Anything more than that, I think is a waste of money. My personal opinion is beyond that level, people are buying prestige and social symbols, rather than products. I feel the same way about the tshirts I see at Bergdorf and Saks. I can’t believe anyone pays $200 for a tshirt that cost a few bucks to manufacture. It’s just asinine. The most brilliant example is Abercrombie & Fitch, which has gross profit margins and per store sale figures that make even the most jaded capitalist weep with joy.

      Some brands have found a way to navigate the hourglass landscape; e.g., Ralph Lauren. Within the brand itself, there are several brands that go from lower end (Lauren by Ralph Lauren) to the highest (Purple Label by Ralph Lauren). The insight that made this possible was that people who liked the Ralph Lauren brand could navigate up slowly, and with decimal creep, as they became older and more successful. That is why you can find a $400 cashmere sweater from Ralph Lauren Polo and an $800 cashmere sweater from Ralph Lauren Purple Label which have similar styling; they allow people who know the difference to decide which they would rather have. In places like the flagship New York store, you can wander from floor-to-floor, getting customers to buy all kinds of merchandise at different price points. It also acclimates them to the price tags. It’s quite brilliant, actually.

      • Gilvus

        I’m fond of my Ralph Lauren polos. Even the lower-priced ones from outlet malls are shaped better and composed of superior fabric compared to a polo from Wal-Mart. What’s your opinion about Express’s 1MX series? I have a set of fitted shirts for “dressy” occasions. They’re tapered at the waist so they look a lot different from the rectangular shirts I used to wear.

        I think it’s an art to convince your customers to pay $80 for a pair of torn-up jeans. For that kind of money,  you could almost buy two shares of ANF! Maybe it’s currently not the best choice from a value investing standpoint, at least the shares appreciate over time. And come without holes in them.

        • Joshua Kennon

          I haven’t worn those but I did go into an Express Men store the last time I was in Columbus, Ohio … or maybe it was Princeton, New Jersey?  No … it might have been Overland Park, Kansas?  I don’t know.  I was somewhere within the past 18 months, in some city East of the Rocky Mountains, and walked past a store in a mall and ended up in there.

          I bought a few items, including a zip-up casual jacket / shirt thing and absolutely loved it.  I wear it all the time.  If their shirts are anything like the other products I got that day, I imagine they are good but I’d have to wear them to know.  They have caught my attention a few times because the cut is a type of extreme slim fit; definitely more modern, which I like.

          The big caveat is I am really weird about the shirt fabrics I wear.  I know a lot of guys my age love super smooth sheet-like shirting fabrics but I am not a huge fan of shirts that have been treated as no-wrinkle because they don’t breathe as easily.  I like natural fibers in complex weaves, like the attached images.  Yeah, it’s extra work to have them pressed but they move so much more effortlessly.  Even after a 12+ hour day, it still feels great.  At this point, all of the shirt people I deal with at various companies don’t even show me the no-wrinkle fabrics; they put the books up before I come in for an appointment.  Totally personal preference; I have friends and family that are crazy about that stuff and you can make great shirts out of it.  

        • Gilvus

          The option to buy slim-fitted clothes off-the-rack is the main reason I like Ralph Lauren and Express. I have an athletic build, so I don’t like how old clothes (i.e. clothes that mom used to buy) muffin-top around my waist.

      • Qadain

        I also think Ralph Lauren’s system is brilliant.  It combines the branding strategy of GM (in its heyday) with the reputation and quality of Brooks Brothers (in its heyday).  Ralph Lauren (the man) is getting old, though, and I hope he has a good successor lined up; according to someone I know that’s made products for him, everything in the company revolves around him — business decisions, style decisions — and he micromanages quite a bit.  I hope the next guy isn’t one of those cost-cutting guys that ruin everything!

        • Joshua Kennon


      • Lisa Rogers

        Joshua, You should check out J Hilburn. My husband is a client and loves his custom shirts (as well as made to measure trousers and jackets). The Fabrics are Albini, Piana, Barberis, Thomas Mason… The options he has are incredible, he has his collar shorten 1/4 inch, pearl buttons as you mentioned, floating interlining in the collar,brass removable stays, yoke is on the bias, some plackets, some not, a couple short sleeves with straight hem’s to wear out with shorts, every collar and cuff choiceyou can think of, the options go on for days….. and they fit him to a tee — its all about the FIT!! And the price points were unbelievable, its because of their business model – most of my husband’s shirts are around $160 – $170!! I was so impressed with his enthusiasm that I am now a personal stylist for J Hilburn,dressing men for a living!! Check out my website: http://www.lisarogers.jhilburn.com. If anyone is interested contact me and I will be happy to put you on contact with someone in your area!!

  • Andre

    My Hong Kong tailor (Baron Kay Taylor) visits the U.S. twice a year.  I am blown away that anyone buys a new shirt at Banana Republic when they can get a full-on custom shirt for the same price.  I’ve been buying only custom shirts for the last 15 years and would never do otherwise.

  • David Tolman

    Joshua, I really enjoyed this article, especially your link to the Proper Cloth website. Could you suggest any other sites that have the simplicity, readability, and comprehensive “checklist” of features to look for in suits? (I’ve opened tabs for Styleforum as well as AskAndyAboutClothes.)

    • Joshua Kennon

      If I come across any, I’ll be sure to update.

  • Hey Joshua,

    Where did you find that blue “textured” fabric featured on this page? I’m really interested in purchasing some for myself. Can you help?

    Thank You,


    • It was from one of the overseas wholesale fabric mills so I don’t know the manufacturer but that style is common. Save the picture on your phone and take it to one of the shirting giants. They will know immediately how to match you to those types of materials based on the current inventory. It’s a popular enough pattern that it shouldn’t be hard to find. You won’t see it just walking into a store, though … you need to talk to someone and go through the fabric books.

      My first bet would be Charvet. I found a similar style collection through the in-store fabric books at Saks (click here for a picture of the one I took). They are worth a visit if you want to go into the men’s departments and flip through the materials (or, if you are in France, stop by the actual Charvet company, which has more men’s shirting fabrics than anywhere else on earth, all under one location … just look at the picture of their inventory rooms!). Nordstrom also has several similar fabrics right now.

      If you’re out in California, I’d try Anto Beverly Hills. They make the dress shirts for most of the big Hollywood hits and have some really terrific fabrics, even on their website.

      You can sometimes find that type of material – the texture of it – on off-the-rack shirts, such as this Thomas Pink double cuff shirt, but at that price range, it’s better to have it made.

      TL;DR: Any high-end shirt maker is going to have multiple styles that match that look. Find the best shirting company around you and talk to them. You won’t be able to do it over the Internet. You won’t be able to do it by phone. You are going to have to walk in several places and open fabric books.

      • ghazal

        Hi, I am based in India. We manufacture shirts casual and formal both with high quality tailoring and approximately $50 per piece is the price. If anyone you know who order shirts in bulk then kindly connect. Fabric and tailoring is unique. Hope to hear from you.
        Best Regards

        • Fareed

          How can i get in touch with you?

      • Vinny

        Have you heard of http://www.shirtsmyway.com/ ? I’m thinking about ordering some shirts there, have you heard or know anyone who have purchased from them? Thank you… Great article!

  • I also discard these same items. Several people wanted them just for the buttons, some were making postage stamp quilts.

  • ShirtShopper

    Wonderfully constructed article. Thank you!

  • Aditya

    Great Article. Thank You.

  • Steve

    Joshua, any suggestions for casual dressy (i.e. I want to look nice, but don’t have a dress code for work ) Fabric type for sports shirts that are cool enough for Texas heat and don’t require ironing? Or is that simply not possible.

  • rob stephens

    I like Van Heusen.

  • maria johns

    I like the quality of Custom Stitchers based in UK, US and Canada. Design your own dress shirt with Custom stitchers.